Introduction
Ce tutoriel de réparation provient de l'équipe iFixit et n'a pas été soumis à l'approbation de Google. Pour en savoir plus sur nos tutoriels de réparation, c'est par ici.
Utilisez ce tutoriel pour changer votre batterie Google Pixel 6a.
Remarque : ce tutoriel a été réalisé avec le modèle Verizon GB62Z, qui est équipé d'une antenne 5G mmWave. Ignorez les étapes concernant l'antenne 5G mmWave si vous avez un autre modèle, car la procédure est identique.
Pour votre sécurité, déchargez la batterie Google Pixel 6a à moins de 25 % avant de démonter votre téléphone Cela réduit le risque d'incendie si la batterie est accidentellement endommagée pendant la réparation. Si votre batterie est gonflée, prenez les précautions nécessaires.
Vous aurez besoin d'un adhésif de remplacement pour effectuer cette réparation.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
Vidéo d'introduction
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Éteignez complètement votre téléphone et débranchez tous les câbles.
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Jointure de l'écran : Cette jointure sépare l’écran du reste du téléphone. Ne pas faire levier sur cette jointure.
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Jointure de la lunette : C’est là que le joint en plastique conçu pour protéger l’écran touche le châssis. Il est maintenu en place par des clips en plastique. C’est là que vous devez faire levier.
Don't actually perform this step now - read a few more steps first!
If changing the glass on only would you not separate the screen seam?
It's pretty stupid, that most Pixel dissasembly videos don't talk about the two different seams.
On the first one I've opened it was very hard, because I've applied not enough heat before and maybe also because it was the seam that losses together with the screen bracket, which seems harder to open in one step.
The 2nd one came off pretty easy after first enough heat was applied and then I had to searately remove the screen bracket to get out the mainboard - BUT then only the top seam opened and the screen bracket itself remained in the case. So how to fix that? Is there another seal available for it, just add small amount of B-7000 or what is the best way to seal it well? -
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'arrière pour débloquer les bras de l'Anti-Clamp.
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Faites glisser les bras par dessus le bord droit de votre téléphone.
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Positionnez les ventouses près du milieu du bord droit du téléphone - une à l'avant et une à l'arrière.
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Serrez les ventouses l'une contre l'autre pour les faire adhérer à l'appareil.
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Tirez la poignée bleue vers l'avant pour verrouiller les bras.
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Tournez la poignée dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre de 360 degrés ou jusqu'à ce que les ventouses commencent à s'étirer.
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Veillez à ce que les ventouses restent alignées l'une par rapport à l'autre. Si elles commencent à se désaligner, desserrez légèrement les ventouses et réalignez les bras.
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Chauffez un iOpener et passez-le à travers les bras de l'Anti-Clamp de manière à ce qu'il repose sur le bord droit du téléphone.
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Attendez une minute pour permettre à l'adhésif de se décoller et de former une ouverture.
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Insérez un médiator sous le châssis de la l'écran lorsque l'Anti-Clamp crée un espace suffisamment grand.
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Sautez les deux étapes suivantes.
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Chauffez un iOpener et appliquez-le sur le bord droit de l’écran pendant deux minutes.
I used a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive. Unfortunatly the IOpener did not work for me. Even with the hair dryer, it was quiet difficult to soften the adhesive. It might have been due to the phone beeing only a few months old.
It was quiet difficult to seperate the screen, but it eventuelly worked. I feel like it took the heat a while to move through the cover and heat up all of the adhesive. After almost giving up, I tried again after a few minutes without heating it again and it suddenly worked. So keep that in mind.Agree with LetsTryThisNext's comment -- it takes a while for the adhesive to loosen. Expect to be at it for 20, 30 minutes -- with the iOpener not working (for me either), re-microwaving the iOpener, then hair dryer, then suction cup not sticking, etc. Good idea to give it a few minutes between each heating attempt.
The iOpener worked for me - once I got the expectation right that it was going to take a while.
Went through about 5-6 cycles of:
* Heating for 40 seconds (1100W microwave); applying to phone for 2 minutes; heating for 30 seconds; applying to phone for 2 minutes; allow to cool for 10 minutes
Could probably have done with one more cycle to get glue even more sticky TBH but when it lifted it was obvious.Took me 3 heat cycles with the iOpener. Basically I did 30 seconds in 1000W microwave and left to heat adhesive for 5 mins, then after stuggling to get the pick in for a few minutes, I did 10 seconds microwave then a couple of mins warming adhesive and a couple of mins failing to get the pick in. Then on 3rd attempt after anothe 10mseconds in the microwave, i got in easily. Seems like the adhesive really takes a while to melt. I also improved my technique with the suction cup which seemed to help lift the screen. Once you are in it is easy to release the remaining clips.
I started with a single edge razor blade and made 1-2 inch cuts to the bezel seam, then applied the opener with a hair dryer on low about 6 inches away. After no more than 2-3 minutes I applied the suction cup, and used a combination of the straight edge razor and picks to open the screen. It was very easy.
The iOpener worked for me, but I went for multiple applications to loosen the adhesive. I think the pins are too big and that's the main issue for people. I used a thin cutter to make a wedge. It probably ran the risk of some damage to the battery. I'd recommend something plastic, thin, and preferably somewhat wide to make enough space for the iFixIt wedges.
The iOpener worked for me. I just insisted on using it until the screen visibly moved upward (some creaking is also noticeable). It was heated for 35/45 seconds with 800 watts in the microwave oven every 10/15 minutes.
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Appliquez une ventouse le plus près possible du milieu du bord droit de l'écran.
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Tirez sur la ventouse avec une force forte et constante afin de créer un espace entre le joint et le châssis.
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Insérez un médiator dans l'espace.
Would be helpful to have alternative solutions offered here for those with shattered screens, since suction cups don't work.
Hi Paul.
Thank you for your comment! I have updated the step to provide an alternative solution for shattered screens.
Would just like to note that in my particular case even tape or super glue did not work, due to the screen being shattered right along the spot where you need to place the suction cup. I ended up resorting to inserting a razor blade into the seam to open it just enough to insert the pick.
I'm in the same boat as mkirwin no amount of pulling with the suction cup worked, I had to use a razor blade to get the seam separated enough to insert a pick. Maybe I didn't heat up the adhesive enough but that stuff is super strong
If your suction cup is not working properly: Heat it up a little bit and it will have a lot more suction.
I'm having trouble pulling on the suction cup, keeping the phone down and inserting the pick all at the same time. The suction doesn't hold unless I use my other hand to keep the phone down, but then I can't use the pick. Is there a way Im supposed to keep the phone locked down?
Would something like this suffice in lieu of a razor blade?
I, too, cannot a gap with the suction cups.
https://www.amazon.com/JerryRigEverythin...
Pick is nowhere near good enough to start the process, and the suction cup is really weak. I didn't have an iOpener because I didn't want to buy it. I had one or two cracks near the middle of the screen, not that bad but enough that pulling the suction cup just made it come loose. I had to 1) apply packing tape to the screen, 2) soak the suction cup in a bit of near-boiling water for a minute or two, 3) use the edge of my pocket knife (had no razor blades), and most importantly 4) hold the phone with the bottom edge against my chest, top edge in my off-hand, point the screen toward my offhand, and pull the suction cup with my offhand. This position was WAY easier than having the phone flat on the desk.
If the screen glass is particularly broken and/or the suction cup has lost elasticity: rely heavily on clear wide packet tape by putting a smooth layer on the screen and sticking another raised layer over it so you can grip it with your hand.
Use the Jimmy if the opening pick is not thin enough to fit through the slot, being extremely careful not to smear the phone shell and not to abruptly insert the pick inside the phone causing serious damage to internal components. Then use it to create just enough space to insert the first pick, then continue with the picks.The Jimmy is also useful for cutting the strands of adhesive that stick to the screen and make it difficult to separate from the shell, while keeping in mind the warnings in the previous point.
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Tout en tirant sur la ventouse, faites pivoter le médiator vers le haut, pour former un angle prononcé.
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Poussez délicatement le médiator tout en faisant levier, afin de le repositionner dans la jointure du joint.
Unfortunatly my plectrums I got with the pro tool kit bent way too easy to open up this first crack between screen and housing. But the reason might have been, that the adhesive was not soft enough yet
I gave up with the suction cup. My screen was too cracked. Instead, after applying heat to loosen the glue, I used a very tiny flat head precision screwdriver to prise the screen open. Not recommended as it leaves a tiny scratch, but saves a lot of hassle. See also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxdaaTd7....
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Faites glisser le médiator sur le long du bord droit, pour ouvrir les clips en plastique fixant le joint au châssis.
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Laissez le médiator dans le bord supérieur droit avant de passer à l'étape suivante.
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Tournez le médiator le long du du coin supérieur droit du téléphone afin d'y ouvrir les clips.
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Laissez le médiator dans le coin supérieur droit pour empêcher les clips de refermer.
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Insérez un nouveau médiator dans l'espace que vous venez de créer.
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Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord supérieur, pour détacher les clips.
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Tournez le médiator le long du coin supérieur gauche du téléphone afin de détacher les clips.
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Laisser le médiator dans le coin supérieur gauche pour empêcher les clips de refermer.
I found that using the side of the pick instead of the point made it easier to keep from over-inserting the pick and it provided more area to keep the glass separated from the frame. It was also easier to slide it around the edges this way. Still had to use the point to get under the frame initially.
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Insérez un nouveau médiator dans l'espace que vous venez de créer.
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Faites glisser le médiator le long du bord gauche afin de défaire les clips.
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Répétez la procédure de rotation et de découpe pour le bord restant.
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Soulevez le bord droit de l'écran vers le haut et vers le côté gauche de l'appareil, comme pour ouvrir un livre.
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Posez l'écran à l'envers et parallèlement au châssis, avant de continuer.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Tweezers$4.99
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Utilisez une pincette pour plier le côté gauche du cache vers le haut. C'est ainsi que vous détachez le clip métallique.
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Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran.
Does anyone know what happens if I lost the metal clip to secure the display cable?
Hi Emmanuel.
Oh no! Unfortunately, this clip is pretty important for securing your screen's press connector, and we don't sell it separately. You should be fine as long as you don't drop your phone...but you may be able to tape it down with some masking tape as a rough fix. Another alternative would be to find a destroyed Pixel 6a and scavenge the clip.
I'm confused about the instructions and the pictures. The pictures imply that the clip should be bent, but the text may describe the method that I applied:
I inserted tweezers at the left side of the clip (there where the springy part snaps under a metal tab). By carefully placing each 'tweeze' of the tweezer on both sides of the tab, it is possible to gently pushing the springy part to the right, and then it releases without having to deform that entire bracket.
After re-reading the instructions, that may be what is implied, but if one were to look at only the pictures it could suggest something different.Yes I did Hugo's method and it worked well. Using tweezers I directly pried the springy part from under the metal tab.
If you look right at the bottom end of the bracket there's a couple sets of holes right next to the screw. If you insert each end of the tweezers into those holes and tilt the tweezers the bracket pops right out.
Danielle is right! It's absolutely the case! Dang thing flew out!
Thank you Danuelle! Worked perfectly!
I forgot to replace the bracket after putting the screen back on, what are the chances it is fine?
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Insérez la pointe d'un médiator en dessous du bord droit inférieur du connecteur à emboîter de l'écran, juste au dessus du trou de vis le plus proche.
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Faites levier afin de déconnecter le connecteur à emboîter de l'écran.
be incredibly careful when removing and installing the cable, the many tiny components along the edge and under the tab are incredibly fragile. This is one of, if not, the most important step.
At this step I had some trouble to reattach the connector. When I pushed down one side the other would pop up again. I solved the issue by carefully pressing down both sides with the tweezers.
silly me totally forgot to reattach "The display cable bracket is secured with metal clips." soooooo maybe tell silly people like me to do that at the end lol. phone will work, but i feel if i drop it the cable may disconnect.... oh well
Don't put the ribbon back in until you have cleaned the old adhesive off and installed the new adhesive!
Obviously the most critical step.
When reassembling 2 things helped me:
1/ You can actually let the new screen rest on the phone at a 90+ degrees angle (thanks to the small plastic edges on the screen) , which leaves you both hand free2/ You can gently unfold the display cable to make it more flexible
During reattachment, make sure you fully plug in the cable. I tested as indicated by turning on the screen and all seemed good. Closed down the screen and then realised it was not reacting to touch... Was very worried but reopening it, turns out I hadn't fully plugged in the screen connector. All good now
I think this is why my screen was defected in the first place. I did not have to do anything to remove the cable. It came off just by looking at it!
Follow very carefully the specific guide for connecting the press connectors.
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Tenez l'écran par les bords pour le manipuler.
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Quand vous posez l'écran sur votre plan de travail, assurez-vous que rien ne touche le bas de l'écran. Il est conseillé de le poser sur un chiffon doux non pelucheux.
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Retirez l'écran.
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Si vous avez remplacé votre écran, contrôlez l'orifice de la caméra frontale et l'encoche du capteur sur l'écran de remplacement, et retirez-y toute protection restante.
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Vérifiez sur votre téléphone si le joint en caoutchouc du capteur de proximité manque – il est peut-être collé au dos de votre ancien écran. Remplacez-le si nécessaire.
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C'est un bon moment pour tester votre téléphone avant de le refermer. Reconnectez votre écran temporairement, allumez votre téléphone, et vérifiez toutes les fonctions. Avant de continuer le remontage, éteignez le téléphone.
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Suivez ce tutoriel pour remplacer l'adhésif de l'écran.
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Si vous installez un nouvel écran Google Pixel 6a, suivez ce tutoriel pour calibrer le lecteur d'empreintes digitales.
Don't forget the display cable bracket folks! This was my first at home repair and Im kicking myself forgetting the bracket.
me too RIP so sad
I just did the same thing. I feel like I pressed the connector down well enough but I wonder how long this will last until it comes loose.
This step should have been made more obvious in the guide.
How long did it last without the bracket? Same mistake here
The fingerprint sensor calibration is impossible to complete in some cases. No matter what, I get an error "Your phone's current software version: TQ2A.230305.008.E1 is newer than this repair tool has." from the google software updater. This indicates it is a known issue "https://issuetracker.google.com/issues/2... not fixed for a year. The Google USB driver does not help if you're not on Windows and get this error. I tried on both mac and linux, no dice.
I'm SOL without a fingerprint sensor. Screen works again though, and everything else went ok with the repair.
A couple of sweaty freaky steps in there - but was able to complete successfully as a first time repairer
For anyone with issues with the Fingerprint Calibration: just spent a few hours so I figured I should post my solution.
I kept going to https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/udfps and being met with error messages.
Here's what to do:
1. Go to https://developer.android.com/studio/run... and choose "Download the Google USB Driver ZIP file (ZIP)." From there, ensure you know where the USB Driver is saved.
2. Put your phone into Fastboot Mode by shutting the phone down and then starting it with both the bottom volume button and the power button.
Do not have your phone all the way in Rescue Mode or it won't work
3. Connect the phone to your PC via. USB
4. Go to Device Manager and look under "Other devices" until you find your phone
5. Right click and choose "Update Driver" and choose "Browse my computer for drivers"
6. Click "Browse" and navigate to your downloaded driver from step 1, choosing "ok" and then "next." The driver update should go through.
7. Go to https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/ and follow it!
I followed this and worked perfectly, no more incompatibility issues of the software not working due to new os update.
thanks
Thank you very much for posting this -- I was helping a friend replace his screen and we would have been stumped without these directions!
zlsmith -
This worked perfectly for me as well. First I was a little worried I didn't reattach the display properly because the error message said (German): "Fingerprintsensor kann nicht gefunden werden.". However, the calibration process fixed the problem! Yay!
You absolute legend!!
I have followed all the above steps but get the error:
Couldn't find the unique calibration software for this device
Can anyone help?1. Go to https://developer.android.com/studio/run... and choose "Download the Google USB Driver ZIP file (ZIP)." From there, ensure you know where the USB Driver is saved.
2. Put your phone into Fastboot Mode by shutting the phone down and then starting it with both the bottom volume button and the power button.
Do not have your phone all the way in Rescue Mode or it won't work
3. Connect the phone to your PC via. USB
4. Go to Device Manager and look under "Other devices" until you find your phone
5. Right click and choose "Update Driver" and choose "Browse my computer for drivers"
6. Click "Browse" and navigate to your downloaded driver from step 1, choosing "ok" and then "next." The driver update should go through.
7. Go to https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/ and follow it!
When doing the fingerprint calibration and putting the phone into Fastboot Mode: Keep it on the screen with the red triangle (i.e. don't press the "Start" button) when plugging it in to your computer.
This was failing for me until I got it all the way into rescue mode. I had the fastboot screen up and rescue mode selected, but it would not connect at the website. Once I hit the button on 'rescue' and it went into rescue mode, then it connected. Then it told me my software was up to date and I didn't need a new install.
Is there a way to recalibrate the fingerprint without the equivalent of a factory reset?
IMPORTANT NOTE - if you buy the screen "part only" it does not come with adhesive!
If you already have the tools (and I have all the iFixIt stuff), ordering the "part only" means you'll have to get the adhesive separately, with another postage charge. Quite frustrating! Yes I suppose it's written down somewhere...
This looks to be no longer true--October 2024 I received a screen adhesive with my screen, and had ordered a separate one, so now I have two.
EMC -
Hi, the repair guide tells to Check the "camera area" and the "Sensor area". My replacement Display only has the black plastic part in the camera area shown in the picture. The black plastic part in the Sensor area is not there. I also checked the packaging but it is not inside. Did anybody else have this issue?
Thanks!
Hi Markus!
Thanks for pointing this out. It looks like the replacement screen didn't come with the black sensor bracket. We'll adjust the instructions shortly to cover this. Sorry for the inconvenience.
If you still have your original screen, please transfer the bracket over. The bracket is adhered to the screen with light adhesive. Use an opening pick to pry it up. If it feels difficult, heat the bracket with an iOpener and try again.
If you can't find the bracket on your original screen, it may actually still be attached to your phone. Check the motherboard as the bracket surrounds the sensor on it.
Hi Arthur,
You are right. The replacement does not come with the bracket. It was also not in my original display but your second hint to check the phone hit it. The bracket ist still attached to the sensor.
Thanks for your Support!
Markus
Markus -
I bought several screens for 6, 6a and 7. I always have to repeat the fingerprint calibration a few times until it works.
Last one, for a 6a, changes the colour temperature randomly and also is really dark under the sunlight, and a few issues else. I think this is not related to software but a defective screen. What do you think?
Similar to Miles' comment. The instructions in the How to Calibrate page should be modified. Steps are missing/in the wrong order. From a Windows machine, you can download the USB driver from Google, yes, but the USB driver cannot be installed to the phone via Device Manager until after you have booted the phone into Faststart mode and then connected to the USB cable.
For anyone who has problems calibrating the fingerprint sensor, I happened to find a pretty good solution. The only problem is that you need another Android device like a tablet or phone.
1. Go to https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/carri... on the working Android device
2. Follow the instructions until you are in fastboot mode on the repaired device
3. Do not select the rescue mode!!!!
4. Simply connect your repaired phone to the working Android device via USB
5. Press "Connection" on the working device and follow the instructions.
Once you have selected your repaired device, everything will go very quickly until your repaired phone reboots and your fingerprint sensor can be used again.
I already tried this with the rescue mode, but the fingerprint error was still not fixed. I accidentally connected my phone without selecting rescue mode and everything went pretty quickly to success.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
My Chromebook worked the best. Just had to fastboot and connect to Chromebook - no downloading files or anything. Spent two hours with no success going the Windows way.
David M -
bonjour.
il est ecrit "C'est un bon moment pour tester votre téléphone avant de le refermer. Reconnectez votre écran temporairement, allumez votre téléphone, et vérifiez toutes les fonctions. Avant de continuer le remontage, éteignez le téléphone et déconnectez l'écran.".
je ne comprends pas "deconnectez l'ecran" ??? si le but est de poursuivre le remontage il faut le laisser connecté après vérification, non ?
MerciBonjour @donnadieuf32097, vous avez raison ! Merci de la remarque. Le tuto a été changé en fonction. J'espère que vous avez pu mener à terme votre réparation ! Bien à vous, Claire
This actually went quite smoothly. Much easier repair than the previous time I did a repair (I think that was on my Pixel 3a or 4a or something). I remember in the past attaching the adhesive was a nightmare and it got totally tangled in itself, but applying it this time with the multiple liners was a breeze. In this repair, removing the old adhesive took the most time, easily 40 minutes. Total repair time was probably more like 2-2.5 hours because of the old adhesive.
Removing the old adhesive will take a long time.
After the fall, my Pixel has the top corners of the metal shell slightly flattened making the final part of reassembly difficult: the new screen remained raised at the top of the phone by a millimeter. To fix it, I laid the phone with the screen facing down and on top of a mouse pad to avoid damage from scratching or breaking the glass; I pressed my fingertips on the back of the top edge steadily and energetically until I heard the click of the plastic clip securing the screen. The screen looks brand new now.
I'm deeply confused- I ordered the screen and it just barely doesn't fit my phone. The clips prevent it from getting in. Even with the clips broken it's still just a quarter/half mm too large to get in there. I checked my amazon order, model's GX7AS, so the screen should have fit but right now I can't make it fit without removing the hard plastic exterior. Any tips guys?
Before attaching it to the phone, carefully remove the screen holder, which is placed to prevent the screen from bending or breaking. No need to cut the clips.
Alex26GC -
Please combine the advice in this guide with the adhesive guide. You need to make it super clear that once the old screen is removed, the next step is to clean off the adhesive, take off the first (of three) lining of the adhesive (the clear lining), stick it to the phone, and remove the second (blue) lining, and leave on the final lining, before preparing the new screen, attaching the ribbon cable and the bracket, then remove the final (thin blue) lining of the adhesive and stick the phone in. The whole “do every step in reverse” thing doesn’t make sense because of the cleaning off of old adhesive and applying new adhesive. Separating it into two articles doesn’t make any sense and once I realised my mistake I had to remove the ribbon cable a second time to put on the new adhesive.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Tweezers$4.99
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Utilisez une pincette pour décoller la bande argentée qui relie le châssis central et le haut-parleur supérieur.
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Utilisez un tournevis Torx T3 pour retirer les 16 vis qui fixent le châssis central au cadre :
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Huit vis de 4,3 mm
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Cinq vis de 2,9 mm
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Deux vis de 4,9 mm
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Une vis de 4,6 mm
I need help, my google pixel 6a was a refurbished phone. Upon getting to this step, five of the screws were already badly stripped so I cannot get them off. Very disappointing. Is there any hope to fix my phone still? They are the Green one, all of the orange except for they top right and the pair of red screws on the top right (not the corner right red one that is on its own on the top right).
Sorry to hear that! Here's a guide with some tips and tricks - hopefully one works! Comment enlever une vis cassée
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Insérez une spatule entre le haut du châssis central et le cadre près de la caméra frontale.
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Faites levier avec la spatule pour dégager les clips en haut du châssis central.
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Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour décoller la pâte thermique.
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Nettoyez les restes de pâte thermique avec de l'alcool isopropylique et un filtre à café ou un chiffon non pelucheux.
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Répétez le processus de nettoyage de la pâte thermique sur le châssis central.
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Faites levier sur le connecteur de batterie afin de le déconnecter.
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Utilisez un tournevis Torx T3 pour retirer la vis de 2,9 mm qui fixe le support de l'antenne 5G mmWave.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Tweezers$4.99
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Utilisez une pincette ou vos doigts pour tirer le support vers le bord droit du téléphone et dégager son clip.
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Retirez le support de l'antenne 5G mmWave.
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Faites levier sur le connecteur de l'antenne 5G mmWave afin de déconnecter son connecteur.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Tweezers$4.99
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Insérez un médiator entre l'espaceur de batterie en plastique et la batterie.
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Faites glisser le médiator vers l'avant tout en faisant levier pour séparer suffisamment l'espaceur pour pouvoir le saisir avec une pincette.
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Utilisez une pincette ou vos doigts pour décoller les languettes en plastique de la batterie.
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Chauffez un iOpener et posez-le sur le dos de l'appareil pendant deux minutes.
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Tirez les languettes d'avant en arrière dans un mouvement de sciage sur toute la longueur de la batterie pour décoller l'adhésif qui se trouve en dessous.
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Dégagez la batterie de l'appareil en l'inclinant pour séparer le reste de l'adhésif.
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Retirez la batterie.
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Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine. Il se peut que vous deviez transférer les composants restants ou retirer les adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour réaliser un diagnostic avec l'outil intégré Pixel Diagnostic, cliquez ici.
Pour des performances optimales,calibrez votre batterie Google Pixel 6a fraîchement installée après avoir terminé ce tutoriel.
Déposez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié.
Comparez votre nouvelle pièce de rechange à la pièce d'origine. Il se peut que vous deviez transférer les composants restants ou retirer les adhésifs de la nouvelle pièce avant de l'installer.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour réaliser un diagnostic avec l'outil intégré Pixel Diagnostic, cliquez ici.
Pour des performances optimales,calibrez votre batterie Google Pixel 6a fraîchement installée après avoir terminé ce tutoriel.
Déposez vos déchets électroniques dans un centre de recyclage certifié.
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7 commentaires de tutoriel
Great instructions- all done and successful!
Many thanks
Just finished this myself. Not sure why the battery adhesive package seemed to come with extra spacer pieces that didn't appear during the teardown.
Almost forgot to reapply thermal paste before putting the midframe back in, oops.
This was great, ultimately, I was successful. I think it would be good to outright state the best times to remove the original adhesive on the screen and battery during disassembly. Probably step 18. I skipped over it entirely when trying to reassemble my first time, and wound up needing to throw out one adhesive kit. It's a good thing I had an extra since I was replacing both screen and battery.
The Fix kit is out of stock, and the battery only seems not to have all the adhesive included. Am I right?
For people who struggle with yellow colors when the brightness is at maximum, see this page, it saved my phone ! https://www.reddit.com/r/mobilerepair/co...
I can't turn off the phone because the screen is broken. Hence why I am trying to replace it.
fixedgerald - Réponse
I managed to turn my phone off by playing with the buttons on the side. I can't tell you exactly how I did it, but it is possible.
YuropeCat - Réponse
Strongly recommend before you start, get a headlamp like for camping and make sure it's charged up good. Even next to a bright south facing window I had difficulty with the shadows inside the phone and along the edges. Headlamp helped.
EMC - Réponse
Fully turn off the device by holding down the Volume Up button and the Power button.
Emanuele Artusi - Réponse
For me, I needed to hold all three, Power, Volume Up, and Volume Down, for ~20 seconds.
Ramekin - Réponse